This Dagdan Teke pectoral, made by the Turkmen of Afghanistan was worn as a cloak fastener, either singly or in pairs. For grand occasions it would have formed part of a far more elaborate ornament. Silver and fire gilded, it has nine brownish orange glass presumably meant to represent the more valuable carnelians, and two green glass insets, presumably meants to represent emeralds. Use of glass is common where the real gemstones were cost prohibitive. The piece is firegilded with a chased pattern. The two hooks at the botton would have been used to attach other components.
The pectoral is signed on the rear with an elliptical scratching. It is at least 100 years old.
Beautiful soft wear commensurate with its age and value in the family.
This would make a fabulous neck ornament or just a great piece for your Turkmen collection. I found it in Istanbul. Very good condition with beautiful soft patina. I have not polished this piece up to its possible glory.
Read more on page 234 in the book ???Jewelery from the Orient – Treasures from the Bir Collection?.
Size: 170mm x 80mm
A bit of Turkmen history !
Turkmen Jewellery has a particularly distinct style that has been coveted throughout the centuries for its intricate workmanship, exquisite designs and ornamental quality. These jewels of Central Asia – from Turkmenostan and I ran, were made by the urban silversmiths and Turkmen tribal craftsmen throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. Their elegant forms, geometric shapes and delicate openwork tell the story of a culture as much as having decorative impact. All pieces are worked with silver, over which gold leaf is fire gilded, creating warm, beautiful patterns that contrast with gemstones, most often cabochon or table cut carnelian and lapis.
Turkmen jewellery is highly collectible. The pieces you’ll find today were often part of greater temple pieces, head dresses and crowns, pectorals and wall decorations.